Making and Baking Shortcrust Pastry

If you want pastry made in the traditional manner, this article is not for you. Whilst many “traditional ways” are included, I have my own method for “making and baking” developed over the years from child to OAP – I reached my 65th birthday just a few days ago.

My cookery teacher at school said I would never be able to make good shortcrust pastry, “not a natural dear“, though I can make the other types of pastry – potato pastry, suet, choux, rough puff, puff and flaky. She was not being cruel just truthful, I followed her instructions to the letter, my pastry was “hard” but she added I was a natural when it came to cakes and bread, my scones were to “die for”.

I have warm hands and “I do not have a delicate touch” (my Mother´s polite way of saying I am heavy handed), Mum also said it was something I had to work at, so I did. Is my pastry as good as Mum´s – not really, but it is a close second. While working on my “technique”, Mum said I should make pastry with self raising flour – that way it would be edible, actually it was very good but had a more “cake like” texture.

I worked on technique and solved – in part – the delicate touch problem. But I had to find a way to help me make better pastry – I did find one … eventually, as in the mid 1960s,  but thirty odd years on it is still “work in progress”. This is the method I have used for many years.

But before I begin, in my humble opinion, a recipe is just a starting point and it is natural for them to evolve over time taking in new equipment and ingredients that make life just a little easier – I find the attitude “if it ain´t broke don´t fix it” slightly lacking. I test out theories in my tiny kitchen – it is well organised making optimum use of the space available. I look for new equipment that will make life easier – and I use it (useful new equipment not the sort where you use it once then toss it in the back of a cupboard).

This was the original idea - return the butter to its original wrapper, pop into the freezer and leave until firm but not frozen, remove just before required. Grate the butter into the flour (use the wrapper to hold the butter) dipping in flour all the way through. Occasionally, so I do not get a load of grated butter on top, pop hands into the flour and lightly toss to coat the butter in flour and ensure even distribution; continue grating in the butter; working very quickly.

Rub in, or not, its up to you – I have tried both methods and they work. In addition, I have a bottle of frozen water at the side of me so I can cool my hands when rubbing in, and a towel to dry them on. I also use this method for making other recipes which require the fats to be “chilled”.

Oven Temperature

Before starting, get to know your oven – buy an oven temperature gauge and use it to check your oven until you know whether it is accurate – some of the ovens I have used over the years have been way out.

Preparation

  1. Buy good quality baking tins with a removable base – really buy the best you can afford.
  2. Check and ensure you have all the ingredients required.
  3. Ensure everything is clean and dry.
  4. Have the tins and other equipment required ready prepared – grease – with oil or butter (and dust with flour – though I do not always do this) before you begin.
  5. Check the shelves in the oven and place them where you want before switching on the oven.
  6. Weigh all ingredients accurately and follow the recipe.

Tips “when making”

  1. While many cooks feel it is no longer necessary to sieve the dry ingredients – I like to do so – again this is up to you – hold the sieve up high tapping lightly with the palm of your hand.
  2. Chill the fats in the freezer – either in the original wrapper or greaseproof then grate into the dry ingredients, dipping in the flour often (just roll the paper back and hold it with the paper – work quickly). Toss flour and fat to coat and evenly distribute throughout process.
  3. Then – rub in or not, its up to you. I use both methods but whatever method you chose it has to be “briefly and quickly”, also toss the flour about just a little as you work.
  4. While you should try to incorporate all the fats, do not overwork, if there are “bits showing”, this is okay.
  5. When the butter is incorporated, add just enough liquid – egg, water or whatever – to bring the ingredients together – measure accurately and use a fork to mix. I was looking for tips to make my pastry better – it is still work in progress. One site stated that the only liquid used must be chilled water (eggs apart) – not milk and definitely not citrus juice. I admit to breaking this “rule” making a lovely orange pastry for my mince pies and many traditional pastry recipes include milk, very rarely citrus juices.
  6. Tip the dough onto the work surface and bring the pastry together, pushing it into a disk, using the heel of your hand – aka the part of your hand between the bottom of your thumb and your wrist.
  7. Wrap in clingfilm, chill in the fridge for about an hour – opinions vary on this, some say 30 minutes, others state it should be a minimum of one hour.

Rolling out

  1. Resting both before and after rolling out is very important, many state at least one hour this allows the gluten to relax and does avoid shrinkage when baking.
  2. Rich pastries and those containing sugar are more difficult to roll out, more likely to crack and/or stick to the work surface or rolling pin – if the pastry gets too warm, pop it in the fridge to cool off.
  3. Lightly dust the work surface and rolling pin with plain white flour, that is – use just enough flour to stop the pastry from sticking – too much will make a tough pastry.
  4. Keep the pastry as cold as you can while you are rolling out – I use a marble work surface, but in general a good cold non-porous work surface is required, ie marble, stainless steel or plastic. While many state you should always keep your pastry cool, not roll out on wood – my Mother had no option on the latter – our table was wood, fitted kitchens with marble work tops were unknown and the only cool place we had was the pantry with its “stone”. That was where the pastry was placed while “resting”; if time was short, chilling was skipped and her pastry was always fabulous.
  5. Work quickly – stating the obvious – but the thinner you roll the pastry out, the quicker it will warm up
  6. One site I recently checked out stated that the pastry should be allowed to come to room temperature before rolling out – I assume this would make it easier to roll out.
  7. Roll out in one direction only give a quarter turn and repeat rolling and turning until the pastry is as thick as you want for your recipe – pastry should be a lovely circle using this method – I am told it should be one eighth of an inch – 3.125 mm but IMHO some recipes – my meat and potato pie for instance – require a thicker pastry.
  8. Flip the pastry over occasionally to help with the rolling and avoid cracking, use the rolling pin as an aid.
  9. Brush off excess flour – using a soft bristle pastry brush and use the pastry to line the dish or tin being used. I use the same method now as I used when making pastry as a child – use the rolling pin as an aid – roll the pastry around the rolling pin, position over the dish or tin, and allow the pastry to fall into the dish – gently guiding with your hands.
  10. Important step – avoid stretching the pastry while lining the dish.
  11. If the pastry cracks – not a problem – dip your fingers in a little water and dampen the pastry just a little where it has cracked, press the pastry back together or use a little left over pastry to patch holes.
  12. When trimming the pastry, use a paring knife not a rolling pin.
  13. At this point – to prick or not – opinions differ so this is down to personal preference. I have never made a quiche, baked custard or flan where the pastry has risen through the filling! If blind baking I prick the pastry case, bake blind then remove the paper and baking beans and brush with egg white then bake again for about 5 minutes. Always take time to lightly press the pastry down into the base and up the sides of the tin or dish – starting at the centre and working outwards – this works for me.

Blind baking in brief

  1. Place a piece of baking paper (just a little larger than the tin) into the uncooked shell, add the beans, distribute evenly over the base and blind bake. You can use many things as weights – i.e. dried beans or chickpeas, rice, actual baking beans made for the job.
  2. Partially cooked shell – bake at 200ºC, (392ºF, gas mark 6) for between 10 to 12 minutes – without browning too much as it will be cooked a second time when the filling is added.
  3. Fully cooked shell – bake for 20 to 25 minutes at 200ºC, (392ºF, gas mark 6).
  4. Check the pastry after the shortest time shown in the method – ovens vary.

Difference between Flan, Quiche, Pie and Tart

There seems to be some disagreement over the definition and differences between Flan, Tart, Pie and Quiche – so I checked the definition according to my Oxford Dictionary.

My Mother´s Meat and Potato pie has a pastry crust on top – it is not encased in pastry. I am told this is not a “pie” – according to the Oxford Dictionary, it is.

So to all those “chefs” and “budding chefs” out there, if you “dispute” the accuracy of their definition, please contact the Oxford University Press.

  • Flan – baked dish consisting of an open topped pastry case with a savoury or sweet filling.
  • Quiche – French term for a baked flan with a savoury filling thickened with eggs – primarily eggs and milk or cream.
  • Pie – baked dish of savoury or sweet ingredients encased in, or topped with, pastry.
  • Tart – an open pastry case containing a sweet or savoury filling, but according to some chefs, usually filled with sweet ingredients.

Volume Recipes using Cups

I was really surprised to read a post recently where people were complaining about  a British recipe website (belonging to a TV channel) using cups, adding they would prefer the recipe to be shown either in Metric or British imperial measures as well as cups.

I understand the reasoning behind these complaints, I do prefer measurements to be either British imperial or Metric  (to digress) recently I have begun changing my recipes to the metric system as it is easier here in Spain, though this is a mammoth task. Personally, I prefer the accuracy of weighing – I once did a little test to ascertain how much flour in one cup weighs – 5 times I filled the cup using different techniques, 5 different weights.

One person said they did not know how to make recipes using the cup system! Make them as you would any other recipe, it is just another system of measurement but by volume rather than weight, though the Americans do tend to (sometimes) add ingredients in ounces or with butter it can be “sticks”, “packed cups” or “tablespoons”.

If you want to make an American recipe, just buy yourself a set of American cups for use in baking – mine are 240 ml for the full cup, 120 ml for the half cup and so on – these are available online though I would advise buying from an American site as we purchased a set from a UK site which clearly stated “American cups” only to find the whole and half cups were Metric and the remaining cups were American. The metric cup (as used in Europe) is 250 ml.

Why British chefs are using cups rather than the Metric system is curious – perhaps they are courting the Americans hoping to increase the numbers visiting their sites!

I also use a set of spoons for baking as these are accurate – the ordinary teaspoon in your cutlery set may not be accurate.  I quite often use volume measurements – even in the traditional Yorkshire pudding.

One important point when making American recipes, an American pint is 473.18 ml and the English pint is 568.26 ml.

Baking for Beginners

Some of these may seem like stating the obvious to experienced baker, but basic tips are important to get started. It is, however, best to find your own way of working. This is how I was taught – at school – not at home! My mother often queried whether she had actually added an ingredient. Preparation was not her forte, neither was tidying up as she went along. The most important thing is to “enjoy yourself”, I love putting the ingredients together and making something that – hopefully – will taste divine.

Update – and what to do if it goes wrong and it falls apart – see idea at end of tips!

  • preparation
    • read the recipe right through; if using a new recipe check that the ingredients in the list are mentioned in the method, mistakes do happen, even with TV chefs!
    • check you have all the ingredients on the list
    • check you have the correct size of baking tin/pan
    • gather all the ingredients; prepare – weigh, blanch, toast, chill and so on
    • place the oven shelves/racks in the position indicated in your recipe
    • always preheat your oven when baking
    • set your timer when it finally goes in the oven
  • accuracy
    • measuring out your ingredients – use good quality scales and spoons made for measuring
    • oven temperature - get to know your oven; check temperature with an oven thermometer available from some supermarkets or kitchenware shops
  • quality ingredients
    • use good quality fresh ingredients, pure vanilla extract not essences; baking powder, once opened stays fresh 3 months – put an opening date on container; good quality sugar or syrups and don´t use ingredients that are passed their use by date
    • store ingredients correctly – whole grain flours, unrefined flour, oils, nuts, seeds, syrups – store in the fridge or freezer in covered containers or bags with a seal
  • When you begin
    • take the ingredients out of the fridge about an hour before starting work on the recipe
    • do not combine the dry ingredients with the liquid ingredients until you are certain the oven temperature is correct – the leavening agent begins working as soon as the two are combined
    • you probably think it not worth while, but “put away” and “clean up” as you go
    • do not overcrowd the oven – remember – tins two inches apart and two inches away from the oven walls
    • resist the temptation to open the oven door until the timer – set to the minimum baking time (if shown) reminds you to check
    • then – check quickly and try not to slam the door
    • And if after all this something goes wrong – for instance if the cakes falls apart (hot cakes are fragile, easily broken), allow it to cool, then get some lovely stemmed glasses or glass bowls. Put in some of the cake, drizzle with a lovely liqueur or fruit sauce, add a little fruit (raspberries or other berries or whatever your prefer), top with some dairy or non dairy cream and a few more berries, then finally chocolate – grated/minced/curls whatever and chill. Then enjoy. And you could, of course, make a very traditional trifle and they do not really need a recipe – just your cake, some fruit, custard if you want (buy ready made), and some lightly whipped cream – as is, sweetened and/or flavoured and something pretty to decorate the trifle with – crushed Cadbury´s original flake tastes and looks good lightly crushed.
    • If the cake sinks in the middle – allow to cool, take out the offending part. Fill with your favourite ice cream, freeze then serve with fresh fruit.

Making and Baking Cakes

Creaming Method

This method of cake making is generally used for rich cakes.

  • Place butter and sugar into a warm bowl – do not allow the butter to ‘oil’, cream together with a wooden spoon until the colour changes from yellow to white. The mixture will then be soft and fluffy with no ‘grittiness’.
  • Break the eggs, one at a time, into a bowl – test for freshness – then add to the mixture and with 1 tablespoon of flour (from the ingredients in the recipe), beat thoroughly. This will prevent the mixture from curdling. Continue until all the eggs have been added. At this point add any spices or flavourings, but not fruit.
  • Use a metal spoon to fold in the flour, a little at a time, to the mixture, alternating with any liquid in the recipe. Fold in means stir once around the bowl and once through the middle.
  • Continue this action until all of the flour is mixed in. At this stage do not whisk, beat or stir – it will spoil the cake.
  • Add any fruit and lightly fold in to combine.
  • Place in the prepared cake tin and bake on the middle shelf of a moderate oven.

Melting Method

Cakes made by this method have a lovely moist, sticky texture with good keeping qualities and should be left a day before cutting as this enhances the flavour and allows the crust to soften. Used to make parkin, gingerbread and American brownies. This is one of the simplest cakes to make and bake, and in my opinion one of the best methods to use.

  1. Sieve all the dry ingredients together into a bowl – dry ingredients include flour, spices, raising agent and salt.
  2. Put the butter, sugar, chocolate, syrup and/or tea (if using) into a saucepan and warm gently over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved and the butter has melted, the ingredients well blended, allow to cool a little.
  3. Using a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, any dairy products other than butter together until well blended. The dairy products in this step includes milk, buttermilk, soured cream, cream, crème fraîche of yoghurt then mix in the cooled butter/sugar etc.
  4. Mix in the cooled syrup (made with the butter and sugar, etc.), then pour over the dry ingredients and quickly mix well, until smooth, take care not to over-mix.
  5. Pour the mixture into a greased and lined tin and bake.

Rubbed in Method

Cakes made by this method are easy to make and ideal for the less experienced cook, and in my experience, these are the best to make when you have little time to spare. The method produces a cake with an open texture.

You simple sift the flour, baking powder and cocoa, if using, along with the salt into a large baking bowl, rub in the butter. Put the eggs, milk, flavourings into a jug, whisk until well blended then add to the dry ingredients and mix well. Then simply pour or transfer to the tin and bake.

Whisking Method (Basic Sponge Recipe and Method)

Basic Sponge - 4 eggs – with shells plus – their weight in plain flour and unrefined caster sugar.
Chocolate Sponge – As for the basic sponge but replace one ounce of flour with one ounce of cocoa.
Plus – in the old recipe I use there is also an additional ingredient – from 1 teaspoon of warm water to 1 tablespoon (or a mixture of water and citrus juice).

20 cm (8”) round cake tin – lightly spray with cooking oil.Preheat the oven to 180ºC, 355ºF, gas mark 4.

Prepare a pan with 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of simmering water and a bowl over the top that does not come into contact with the water. Break in the eggs, add the sugar and whisk until the texture thickens and is lukewarm (do not allow to become too hot). Remove bowl from the pan, continue whisking until the mixture is thick, ropey and lukewarm.

Alternatively – beat with an electric mixer until very thick and pale, and the mixture leaves a trail on the surface when the beaters are lifted out.

Sift half the flour over the mixture and gently fold in with a large metal spoon, sieve the remaining flour over the mixture, fold in with the water or citrus juice.

Scrape into the prepared tin and shake gently so that it spreads evenly into the corners, bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

Fillings/Toppings – you can use many fillings or toppings with a sponge cake, these are just a few examples.

  • Chocolate Ganache made with equal parts good quality chocolate and double cream.
  • Try cutting the sponge into two layers, sandwiching the cake together with Nutella topped with lightly whipped double cream or crème fraîche.
  • Cream cheese frosting/filling and fresh berries – bilberries or blueberries, raspberries, loganberries.
  • Raspberry jam and cream.
  • Gooseberry or passion fruit curd and cream.
  • Lemon or lime curd – this is quite nice mixed into whipped cream for a filling.

How can I tell if my cake is cooked?

  1. Fruit/Sponge – a fine warmed skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean. A continued bubbling sound indicates cooking is required.
  2. Sponge – properly baked cakes should be evenly brown with slight shrinkage from the side of the tin and firm to touch.